How many times have we wished if only our bullets were a bit more buxom? A bit more muscles and curves on their third profile-the breadth? Watching "the HOG" or "Easy Rider" always itches you in that direction...but you feel helpless as to wot to do and where to start.
In 2001, while I was riding through some old street in Ludhiana, I saw a big yellow motorcycle. I was totally in awe of it within one minute of seeing it. It was a repair shop and the guy who was working on the bike told me it was an Indian Chief of 1942. The owner wanted to restore it to a running condition. The process was slow and tedious, as they had to call for the parts from western countries, or get them custom-made on lathes. It was built like a truck. There were flat beds in place of foot rests, and the gear lever was in fact a rod that ran next to the 30 liter tank!! One really ought to be dead not to notice the gigantic dimensions, yet beautiful outcome of the machine. I asked the mechanic how much it cost in that raw condition. He told me 3.5 lac. This is a big money for a two generations old bike. isn't it?
I bought a bullet motorcycle on 5th September 2001. For the guys who understand this, this is a milestone in the life. Some others are -getting a govt. job, getting married, the birth of children, etc. These milestones can be counted on fingertips, and owning a bullet is one of them.
I bought a bullet motorcycle on 5th September 2001. For the guys who understand this, this is a milestone in the life. Some others are -getting a govt. job, getting married, the birth of children, etc. These milestones can be counted on fingertips, and owning a bullet is one of them.
Well, since I started writing this piece of blog thinking about the mods to be carried out to turn your stock motorcycle into a dream-bike, I am not going to dwell on to this dream story of the romances of a boy and a bullet. This will follow some time else. As of now, please let me narrate, in very simple and lucid details, the things to do to make a custom motorcycle (ornamentally). Here we go:
Guys, most of us want to increase that third dimension in our machines. It has got height and length, it has got good breadth too, but sometimes we feel this is not enough. Bullet, being all metal, allows all kinds of denting and welding and shaping.
I m gonna suggest some decent and in-expensive modifications for your bikes. This is the only way to own a designer bike. A bike with your own ideas of beauty......something like no other bike on the road, and you don’t have to be an engineering wizard to do that.
The only things needed are a local denter and a painter, and a decent local car and bike-parts market.
The only things needed are a local denter and a painter, and a decent local car and bike-parts market.
First thing you would like to work upon is the tank. I have always felt the tank to be a bit too less in breadth. And for a heavy bike like bullet, you would surely want to carry more petrol on a trip.
Regarding this, you may get your stock tank moded. Ask your denter to give it a shape you want. It can be teardrop, or a big 30 liter shape as u see in the pic. You can get the ideas on the net. The tank can be cut in the middle and a strip of sheet metal welded to give it a wider effect. That way, the shaping has to be done just in the middle line where the strip has been added.
Regarding this, you may get your stock tank moded. Ask your denter to give it a shape you want. It can be teardrop, or a big 30 liter shape as u see in the pic. You can get the ideas on the net. The tank can be cut in the middle and a strip of sheet metal welded to give it a wider effect. That way, the shaping has to be done just in the middle line where the strip has been added.
Then come the tool boxes. This is the place where you can arrange to double or triple your storage space without giving up on beauty. I have simply got the boxes cut on the walls near the base, and added two inches or metal strip. And then weld the outer wall again. That way you don’t need to painstakingly make the locking lump with precision. Working like this allows you to work with a dumb denter. U know wot I mean.
Then come the mud guards. If u r in for a cruiser, you may want a heavier rear mudguard. This is a prerequisite also when u r thinking on putting on a fat tyre (150size or so). The stock tyre is about 110 (2.75 inch). There are two things to be done to be able to fix a fatter tyre on the rear. First, the mudguard, and second, the rear swing arm (jhoola, in mechanics language)
for the mudguard, you can use the stock mudguard and get it cut from middle and add two or three inches, as per your liking. But I would suggest you to buy a new un-chromed and raw read mud-guard and get it cut and made. This will save you the shaping of the outer curves along the length of the mudguard. If u wants to have a cruiser, you will have to keep the length of the mudguard as long as it is. if u r eyeing for a chopper, get it cut so that the rear end is just up to the middle of the rear tyre.
Second part was concerning the swing arm. I will come to it later.
for the mudguard, you can use the stock mudguard and get it cut from middle and add two or three inches, as per your liking. But I would suggest you to buy a new un-chromed and raw read mud-guard and get it cut and made. This will save you the shaping of the outer curves along the length of the mudguard. If u wants to have a cruiser, you will have to keep the length of the mudguard as long as it is. if u r eyeing for a chopper, get it cut so that the rear end is just up to the middle of the rear tyre.
Second part was concerning the swing arm. I will come to it later.
Next is the front mudguard. The stock mudguard is just fine unless you want to give it some bigger shape. If it is a cruiser, you may add to its profile by getting ideas from the net. If it is a chopper, the front mudguard needs to be cut as per your taste. Even keeping a stock will do.
This is about the tank, side-boxes, and the mudguards.
About the front head, it is entirely upon you how you like it, and your finances. For all the denting jobs I have detailed, it won’t cost you more than 4000/- for the denter's job. He just had to cut and weld to the minimum. Just make sure the sheet is of good gauge, and the welding is highest quality. You won’t like petrol dripping off the joints. Normally, after the tank and other jobs are done, they test the joints for leakage by storing water for a day. This is an easy and fool-proof method.
About the front head, it is entirely upon you how you like it, and your finances. For all the denting jobs I have detailed, it won’t cost you more than 4000/- for the denter's job. He just had to cut and weld to the minimum. Just make sure the sheet is of good gauge, and the welding is highest quality. You won’t like petrol dripping off the joints. Normally, after the tank and other jobs are done, they test the joints for leakage by storing water for a day. This is an easy and fool-proof method.
so up to now, it is just 4000/- if you want to go for a head like thunderbird, and disk-brakes, it will cost you another 12000/- approx. you could save this money by keeping the stock head as it looks beautiful, and has parking lights, and is unique.
I m not in favor of changes to the chassis of the bike. At times, just to have a higher front end, some guys go for longer front shocks, and they cut the front shock holders form the chassis and give it an angle and weld it there. The chassis is made with high precisions and any change to it will make your bike non-balanced for life.
Now for the rear tyre
the stock swing arm can take a tyre up to 120mm size, no bigger. There are some good rear swing arms available in the market. You could always settle for one which would allow a fatter tyre. The safest bet is 150mm.
wheels in bullet are 19". I have changed the rear to an 18" from an old explorer. Bullet wheels come with 40 holes for the sprockets, and all the other wheels have 36holes. So if u are planning to keep the original bullet hub (because of its right-side brake) and get a smaller wheel from the market, think again. It is gonna fall short by 4 sprockets. There are but modded bullet hubs available in market. Go get one. For those with right side brakes, there is no issue.
the stock swing arm can take a tyre up to 120mm size, no bigger. There are some good rear swing arms available in the market. You could always settle for one which would allow a fatter tyre. The safest bet is 150mm.
wheels in bullet are 19". I have changed the rear to an 18" from an old explorer. Bullet wheels come with 40 holes for the sprockets, and all the other wheels have 36holes. So if u are planning to keep the original bullet hub (because of its right-side brake) and get a smaller wheel from the market, think again. It is gonna fall short by 4 sprockets. There are but modded bullet hubs available in market. Go get one. For those with right side brakes, there is no issue.
You may want to change the secondary drive fly-wheel to 18 or 19 teeth from the stock 16th. That means the wheel, in one revolution, will rotate 19 teeth is place of the stock 16 teeth. That means a bit lower pick-up speed, but a higher top speed. This is compensated by the smaller wheel you put in the rear.
Changing to a smaller wheel alone does bring the seating stance lower, but the mud-guard will not come nearer to the tyre, and it will look odd sitting half a foot above the tyre. You may have to cut the rear kamani too to bring the tyre a bit lower.
Remember, if u r thinking of changing the rear tyre to lot smaller size, you have to keep in mind the placement of the engine compartment too. It should always be parallel to the ground, or else it will run dry and your engine will seize.
Remember, if u r thinking of changing the rear tyre to lot smaller size, you have to keep in mind the placement of the engine compartment too. It should always be parallel to the ground, or else it will run dry and your engine will seize.
You may put a thunderbird handle bar in place of the stock straight one. It is about 30" and pretty good for handling and comfort and looks.
As for the indicators, Swiss brand are cheaper than the minda brand, and the finish and life is pretty good. They cost around 700 for four pieces. Paint job will take another 4000 for the body as well as the engine.
As for the indicators, Swiss brand are cheaper than the minda brand, and the finish and life is pretty good. They cost around 700 for four pieces. Paint job will take another 4000 for the body as well as the engine.
Get a good pair of split seat for your machine. Ask for khajanchi. Or else goole for it. It is Delhi based, and quite good and cheap. A pair will cost you mot more than 2000.
And for the parts like horns and indicators and seat and handle bar and rear view mirrors, keep another 6 or 7000. So that makes it 17000 for the ornamental mods. And you will have your own custom made bike. All you need a bit of research and lots of thinking. Simple as that. If you got a good engine, you are the happiest person by spending this small sum. Give or take 15%.
And for the parts like horns and indicators and seat and handle bar and rear view mirrors, keep another 6 or 7000. So that makes it 17000 for the ornamental mods. And you will have your own custom made bike. All you need a bit of research and lots of thinking. Simple as that. If you got a good engine, you are the happiest person by spending this small sum. Give or take 15%.
The bike u see here is that much. It is an Electra 4gear, bought in Sep 2001. There was no engine job. Just ornamental changes. And I have faced no problems relating to mods. No leakages in engine, no breakages, no stoppages, no nothing.
You may as well as see more pics on my orkut page. Search for amarzmail@gmail.com.
Happy riding.
You may as well as see more pics on my orkut page. Search for amarzmail@gmail.com.
Happy riding.
